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ALOE VERA
Principal indication: dehydrated skin
PURE ACTIVE A31
Bibliographical summary
 
  • INCI name: ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE POWDER
  • Aloe vera leaf juice total extract
 

Of the 360 species of aloes, aloe vera is the most popular. It is a perennial plant belonging to the Liliaceae family. Its leaves contain numerous constituents, including 20 minerals, 18 amino acids and 12 vitamins. Of these constituents, we can quote the polysaccharides (galactose, xylose, arabinose), the glycoproteins and the anthraglycoside derivative (5-25% aloin). Two substances can be obtained from the plant: latex, drawn from the external part of the leaves, and the juice, contained inside the leaves.
Aloe vera is widely used in the textile, food, pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. It is thanks to the juice contained in the leaves that we owe aloe vera its numerous therapeutical benefits. Indeed, this juice is rich in glycoaminoglycans, vitamins, trace elements, amino acids and glycoproteins. Today, it is the plant most widely used as a cosmetic active in the world.

 

  • ACTION MECHANISMS / PROOFS OF EFFECTIVENESS

Very popular in traditional medicine, Aloe Vera was subsequently studied by a number of scientists and numerous properties were revealed [1, 2, 3, 4].
• It stimulates collagen production and the cicatrization of burns [5].
• It is effective in treating psoriasis [6, 7].
• Aloe Vera also has an anti-inflammatory activity [8].
Indeed, aloctin A (lectin contained in the leaf) inhibits the biosynthesis of prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), which is an inflammatory mediator [9]. The juice contained in this plant may dilate the blood vessels by inhibiting thromboxane A2 whilst maintaining the PGE2 and PGF2 (Prostaglandin F2) ratio.
• Finally, it is recognized as a key active in cosmetics owing to its moisturizing virtues.

It has been demonstrated that dry Aloe Vera extracts increase skin moisturization through a humectant mechanism. Indeed, this substance increases the quantity of water contained in the superficial part of the epidermis without increasing the TEWL (TransEpidermal Water Loss). The composition of the extract, rich in hygroscopic mono/polysaccharides and amino acids (histidine, arginine, threonine, serine, glycine and alanine), is probably responsible for improving water retention in the stratum corneum [10].

 

  • OUR EXPERT'S OPINION

The cosmetics active par excellence, its composition, rich in trace elements, sugars, vitamins and amino acids gives it moisturizing and soothing properties, although, at the time of writing, it is not possible (conclusively) to correlate them to a specific mechanism or an exact dominant molecule. This "cocktail" effect nevertheless remains appreciable in the search for good skin comfort or to complement other actives.

 

  • EFFECTIVE DOSE
The body of publications and scientific studies, customary usages of this active and our expert's opinion concur in using Aloe vera pure Active at the dose of 75 mg per bottle.

 

  • BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES

[1] Cosmeceutical application of Aloe gel. Devi R and Rao M, Natural product radiance, 4(4): 322-327; 2005.
[2] Aloe vera : a short review. Surjushe A et al., Indian J Dermatol, 53(4): 163-166; 2008.
[3] Aloe vera : a systematic review of its clinical effectiveness. Vogler BK and Renst R, British Journal of General Practice, 49(447): 823-828; 1999.
[4] Adverse and benefical effects of plant extracts on skin and skin disorders. Mantle D et al., Adverse Drug React Toxicol Rev, 20(2): 89-103; 2001.
[5] Preliminary evaluation : The effects of Aloe Ferox Miller and Aloe Arborescens Miller on wound healing. Jia Y et al., Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 120 (2): 181-189; 2008
[6] Management of psoriasis with Aloe vera in a hydrophilic cream : a placebo-controlled, double blind stud. Syed TA et al, Topical Medicine and International Health, 1(4): 505-509; 1996.
[7] Aloe vera in dermatology : a brief review. Feily A et al., G Ital Dermatol Venereol, 144 (1): 85-91; 2009.
[8] Antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and mutagenic investigation of the south African tree aloe. Ndhlala AR et al., Ethnopharmacol., 124(3): 404-408; 2009.
[9] Pharmacological studies on a plant lectin aloctin A II Inhibitory effet of aloctin A on expérimental model of inflammation in rats. Saito S et al., Japanese J. Pharmacol., 32(1): 139-142; 1982.
[10] Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques. Dal’Belo SE et al, Skin research and Technology, 12(4): 241-246; 2006.

This information is given for informative purposes. In no event does it constitute medical information, nor engage our liability. These documents may be copied and reproduced exclusively for informative purposes for personal and private use. All and any use of copies or reproductions for other purposes is expressly forbidden and shall engage the user's liability under Article L 122-3 of the Intellectual Property Code.