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Principal indications: very dry skin, roughness, cracks
Bibliographical summary
  • Molecule more than 75% pure obtained by biosynthesis

D-panthenol is the dextrorotatory form (form in which biological activity is the greatest) of vitamin B5, which is metabolized into pantothenic acid in the epidermis. D-panthenol is a small molecule which, although very hydrosoluble, easily penetrates the skin (unlike pantothenic acid), leaving a fine film on the surface.
Its acid form is found in all living cells as it is also found in the composition of coenzyme A (CoA) and acetyl CoA. These two elements are essential to the Krebs cycle, the source of cell energy. Pantothenic acid is therefore involved in glucid, lipid and protein metabolism. Deficiency in vitamin B5, which is omnipresent in food (particularly abundant in meat, fish, yeasts, vegetables and eggs), may cause physiological and dermatological disorders.
Numerous lip treatments already contain D-panthenol to repair cracks and moisturize the lips.



D-panthenol easily penetrates the epidermis [1].
D-panthenol induces the synthesis of a precursor of fatty acids and sphingolipids, which are essential in forming the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum. D-panthenol helps to repair [3] the cutaneous barrier, improve moisturization, reduce roughness and indirectly reduce inflammation (as the barrier function is restored, it will thus restrict the penetration of potentially irritant agents), and this at a concentration of 5% [2].
The cicatrizing property of D-panthenol is due to its mitotic activity on the fibroblasts. The mitotic activity of its metabolization product in the epidermis, pantothenic acid, has also been proven on cultured human fibroblasts [4]. By stimulating cell growth, D-panthenol reduces wound cicatrization time.
Through its hygroscopic property, D-panthenol improves skin moisturization as of 1% with no significant difference compared with the placebo, whereas, at 2%, this difference is significant.



This vitamin is the precursor of coenzyme A and is much more stable than the latter. The metabolic chain targeted is that of the lipid metabolism. In this respect, its role in cell repair, skin moisturization and inflammation has been revealed in vivo. Its association with cysteine may also be justified (biosynthesis of coenzyme A). Its amphiphilia makes it a good skin conditioner that helps moisturization and the barrier effect. Nothing in the literature makes it possible to specify an exact effect/dose ratio. We may consider a non-specific "metabolic recharge" activity and skin conditioning.
Concentrations higher than 1% are documented. We may therefore consider a concentration of a few percent (5%) as regards effectiveness in mono-active use.


The body of publications and scientific studies, customary usages of this active and our expert's opinion concur in using D-Panthenol pure Active at the dose of 550 mg per bottle.




[1] topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. Ebner F et al. am J Clin Dermatol. 3(6):427-33. 2002.
[2] Dexpanthenol enhances skin barrier repair and reduces inflammation after sodium lauryl sulphate-induced irritation. Proksch E, nissen hP. J Dermatolog treat. 13(4):173-8. 2002.
[3] Efficacy and patient benefit of treatment of irritated skin with ointments containing dexpanthenol: health services research observational study) on self-medication in a pharmaceutical network. Radtke Ma et al. hautarzt. 60(5):414-9. 2009.
[4] Wound-healing activity of St. John’s Wort (hypericum perforatum L.) on chicken embryonic fibroblasts. Öztürk n et al. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 111(1): 33-39. 2007.

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