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HYDROXYPROLINE
Principal indication: loss of firmness
PURE ACTIVE A91
Bibliographical summary
 
  • INCI name : DIPALMITOYL HYDROXYPROLINE
  • Molecule more than 75% pure obtained by biosynthesis
 

Hydroxyproline is an amino acid found principally in collagen, the protein in the bone matrix, in the skin's connective tissue. With proline, its precursor, it represents 25 to 30% of the total amino acids forming collagen.
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body.
When synthesizing collagen, the fibroblasts synthesize tropocollagen, the precursor of the future collagen. The hydroxylation of the prolines in tropocollagen into hydroxyproline is the crucial reaction in collagen synthesis. It would seem that the hydroxylation of proline is post-traductional. This reaction is catalyzed by an enzyme, prolyl hydroxylase, in the presence of vitamin C. Hydroxylation helps to:
• Stabilize the collagen molecule, thanks to the formation of covalent bonds between the various neighbouring polypeptide chains;
• Protect proteins from digestion by proteases;
• Enable good secretion in the intercellular space.
In the course of collagen turnover, its two amino acids are jettisoned in free or dipeptide form. The non-metabolized part is eliminated in the urine. The measurement of free and bonded hydroxyproline in the urine is used to assess the metabolism of the collagen and its malfunctions.

 

  • ACTION MECHANISMS / PROOFS OF EFFECTIVENESS

Hydroxyproline acts in the epidermis and the dermis and increases the synthesis:

• Of ceramides, via activation of keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis [1-2].
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline has been described as an epidermal repair factor, particularly as a cicatrizing agent.
It is presented as an agent that improves the appearance of human skin, particularly in ageing, by increasing its thickness. Hydroxyproline is thought to have an action on photo-ageing and, more particularly, on wrinkles [2].

• Of collagen by the fibroblasts, by indirect action on the dermis [1-2].
An in vivo study on one side of the face on 15 women aged between 44 and 55 shows the effects of 1% hydroxyproline formulated in emulsion versus a placebo (twice daily application for 1 month). The cutaneous relief of the crow's feet and the moisturization level are assessed. For 60% of the panel, hydroxyproline tends to reduce the depth of average wrinkles by 3% and the wrinkled surface by 35% compared with the placebo. The moisturization level is increased by 18% [3].

 

  • OUR EXPERT'S OPINION

Hydroxyproline is a major constituent of collagen. Derivative compounds have been proposed to regulate dermal repair and inflammation phenomena. Oxaceprol (acetyl hydroxyproline) is the most well known derivative in therapeutics. Documented effects were obtained and a medicinal substance is subject to marketing authorization.

The most common indication for oxaceprol by surgeons is hypertrophic and/or inflammatory cicatrization. The dose is then 10% applied topically.

The derivative proposed is a dipalmitoyl; this is a lipoamino acid with a higher power of penetration that the native amino acid form. Although this active is less well documented than the acetyl form, it seems that it may claim a certain action on the skin. The dose, however, is very much lower than the one used in pharmacy.

 

  • EFFECTIVE DOSE

The body of publications and scientific studies, customary usages of this active and our expert's opinion concur in using Hydroxyproline pure Active at the dose of 80 mg per bottle.

 

  • BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES

[1] Manufacture and physiological activities of hydroxyproline. Kobayashi et al. Frag J, 31(3): 37-43. 2003.

[2] From Self tanners to sunscreens as skin protectants. Fox C. Cosmetics&Toiletries 118(10): 26-32. 2003.

[3] Evaluation et comparaison des effets anti rides, hydratant et raffermissant d’un actif formulé contre un placebo. Miquey-Pallandre PL et al, Dermscan, n°98609


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