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LW HYALURONIC ACID
Principal indications: deep wrinkles, loss of firmness
PURE ACTIVE A06
Bibliographical summary
 
  • INCI name : HYDROLYZED SODIUM HYALURONATE
  • Molecule more than 85% pure obtained by biotechnology
 

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan found in all vertebrates, principally in the conjunctive, epithelial and nerve tissues. It is one of the main constituents of the extracellular matrix. This matrix allows cells to organize themselves in tissue. More than 50% of the total hyaluronic acid in the body is found in the skin. Which explains the importance of its contribution to the condition of our skin.
Hyaluronic acid is a natural constituent in the dermis and plays an important role in the moisturization, tonicity and elasticity of the skin. It is in young organisms that it is found in the largest quantity. Indeed, over time, its presence diminishes, because the free radicals to which we are exposed (sun, pollution...) destroy it. Little by little, our skin dries out and wrinkles.
It is estimated that, at 50 years of age, men and women have only half of the quantity of hyaluronic acid that they had in childhood.
Like a "molecular sponge", hyaluronic acid is capable of retaining more than 1000 times its own weight in water. It restores the skin's elastic properties, helps to moisturize it and smoothes its surface.
In plastic surgery, hyaluronic acid is injected into the dermis so as to give the skin an immediately smooth and plump appearance.
In cosmetics, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (LW hyaluronic acid) plays a fundamental role in cell migration and proliferation, two processes that occur during all regeneration, reconstruction, or wound cicatrization. The regenerative capacities of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can therefore be used effectively to treat skin ageing. It is also used for these same properties in the form of intradermal injections to fill in wrinkles and in ophthalmological and articular surgery.

 

  • ACTION MECHANISMS / PROOFS OF EFFECTIVENESS

 

Etat Pur uses the low molecular weights of hyaluronic acid for its recognized biological properties. Its various actions are as follows:
• Tissue regeneration:
In vitro studies show that hyaluronic acid stimulates collagen I synthesis in the dermis [1] and increases the proliferation of fibroblasts [2]. The latter also have the ability to manufacture hyaluronic acid. The quantity of hyaluronic acid in the skin is then increased. The skin is redensified, more toned and firmer and wrinkles are ironed out [1].
• Moisturization:
In vitro studies prove that hyaluronic acid stimulates the synthesis of the constitutive proteins of the tight junctions such as occludins and ZO-1, helping to prevent transepidermal water loss [1]. Moreover, hyaluronic acid increases the natural moisturization of the skin [3].
• Cicatrization:
In vivo studies have shown that the application of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid significantly improves skin cicatrization. It activates re-epithelialization, regulates cell proliferation and migration and thus lessens the roughness of the newly formed epidermis [1]. Hyaluronic acid promotes healing by stimulating cell adhesion and proliferation [4]. The repaired tissues are better in quality, scars less significant.
The regenerative capacities of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can thus be used effectively to treat cell ageing.

 

  • OUR EXPERT'S OPINION

 

From the glucosaminoglycan family, this polymer plays an important role in skin structures. Relatively resistant to biodegradation, but obviously biocompatible and not particularly immunogenic, it has become an essential tool in wrinkle "filling" techniques.
Very hygroscopic, it forms protective films and acts as a biological matrix for a great many reconstruction processes. This is its most marked and certain biological effect.
Hyaluronic acid is available in various "grades" of molecular mass, from a few thousand to several million Daltons. The viscosity and suitability for lining the surface of the skin increases with the molecular mass.
The smallest oligomers with the (disaccharidic) base motif exceed 1000 Daltons, limiting transdermal passage in the deepest layers. Impregnated in the corneous layer, on the other hand, they naturally change the gradients in the stratum corneum/epidermis and regularize epidermization, owing to their effect "as a sponge for water and ions".
The effect is even more noticeable when the skin is abraded.
As the molecule is very bioadherent and stable, it will bring about more sustained effects than any other small hygroscopic agent, by nature very diffusible.


On damaged skin or in cell cultures, the cell regeneration and protection effects are well established.
On healthy skin, skin conditioning effects give great satisfaction and make it a molecule of choice. The ratios between the various masses and concentrations are related to the cosmetic properties and the immediate effects expected. We think a contribution necessary in small molecular masses for a less superficial effect and to allow a favourable water and ion gradient (particularly Ca).
We thus find uses from 0.01% to 1%. Use in the order of 0.5% of small and large masses should more than cover the skin's cosmetic needs.

 

  • EFFECTIVE DOSE

 

The body of publications and scientific studies, customary usages of this active and our expert's opinion concur in using LW Hyaluronic Acid pure Active at the dose of 100 mg per bottle.

 

  • SCIENTIFIC STUDIES

 

[1]

 Activité Méthode et Durée Produits testés
et dose
 Résultats
Improvement of skin roughness In vivo study on 22 volunteers (women aged from 22 to 66) applying a gel containing 0.5% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (15,000-50,000 Da) on the forearm twice a day for 28 days.
Observation of skin roughness before/after treatment by a dermatologist. Comparison with a placebo.
Gel containing 0.5% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (15,000-50,000 Da)

Il a été démontré que seulement 0,6% de l’extrait est nécessaire pour obtenir une myorelaxation complète. Le processus de blocage est totalement dépendant de la concentration de l’extrait testé. Une fois que la myorelaxation complète est obtenue, le milieu de culture est lavé pour éliminer l’extrait d’Acmella oleracea. Les résultats montrent le retour progressif des contractions musculaires, prouvant la réversibilité de l’effet.

L’étude sur la peau reconstruite confirme la stabilité de l’actif, qui est tout aussi efficace au sein d’une formulation. Son activité dose-dépendante et réversible est confirmée. Il est intéressant d’observer qu’après 24 heures, une efficacité résiduelle subsiste à une concentration de 3% d’extrait d’ Acmella oleracea. Ceci pourrait suggérer un effet cumulatif potentiellement intéressant lorsqu’il est utilisé quotidiennement

Improvement of biomechanical properties Objectivation test of the skin's biomechanical properties:
In vivo study on 22 volunteers (women aged from 50 to 60) applying a cream containing 0.5%
low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (15,000-50,000 Da) on the forearm twice a day for 56 days.
At the end of the study, the volunteers self-assessed the improvement of the skin's biomechanical properties.
Cream containing 0.5% low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (15,000-50,000 Da)

 90% of subjects satisfied:
- Skin more moisturized
- Skin more toned
- Skin firmer

Stimulation of pro-collagen I synthesis Treatment of a fibroblast culture with various hyaluronic acid concentrations. The pro-collagen synthesized is administered in the supernatant fluid after 48 hours' incubation. Various low molecular weight hyaluronic acid concentrations (15-50 Da):
-3mg/ml = 0.3%
-5mg/ml = 0.5%

-At a concentration of 3 mg/ml:
9% increase in pro-collagen I synthesis.
-At a concentration of 5 mg/ml:
20% increase in pro-collagen I synthesis.
Conclusion: by increasing pro-collagen I synthesis, hyaluronic acid helps to preserve the skin's tonicity and delay the appearance of signs of ageing.

Reinforces cell cohesion and prevents transepidermal water loss In vitro: treatment of keratinocytes with 5 mg/ml of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (15,000-50,000 Da). Protein separation by Western Blot. Marking with a monoclonal anti-occludin or ZO-1 antibody and visualization of the antibodies using the ECL method. Comparison with a control. 5 mg/ml (0.5%) of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (15,000-50,000 Da)

-39% increase in occludin synthesis
-29% increase in ZO-1 synthesis
Conclusion: by stimulating ZO-1 and occludin synthesis, low MW hyaluronic acid reinforces cell cohesion and prevents transepidermal water loss.

 

  • BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES

[2] Hyaluronan Facilitates Transforming Growth Factor-β1-mediated Fibroblast Proliferation. Meran S et al. JB, 283(10): 6530-6545. 2008. 
[3] Clinical trial report: clinical efficacy evaluation of tree moisturizing products in improvement of moisture content of the skin. Ellead skin research center Co., Ltd. November 27, 2006.
[4] Differential effects of hyaluronan and its fragments on fibroblasts: relation to wound healing. David-Raoudi M et al., Wound Repair Regen. 16(2):274-87. 2008.

This information is given for informative purposes. In no event does it constitute medical information, nor engage our liability. These documents may be copied and reproduced exclusively for informative purposes for personal and private use. All and any use of copies or reproductions for other purposes is expressly forbidden and shall engage the user's liability under Article L 122-3 of the Intellectual Property Code.