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RESVERATROL
Principal indication: deep wrinkles
PURE ACTIVE A05
Bibliographical summary
 
  • INCI name : VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) VINE
    EXTRACT
  • Plant extract from vine shoots (Vitis vivifera) titrated into Resveratrol monomers and oligomers
 

A polyphenol from the stilbenes class, resveratrol is found in certain fruits like grapes and blackberries. It is found in significant quantities in wine, in which its presence would partly explain the beneficial effects of wine on health when drunk in moderation (which the English-speaking world calls the French Paradox). This molecule has undergone widespread research and has long been known for its benefits to cardiovascular disease, diabetes and good brain function.
Resveratrol is also used widely in cosmetics formulations. Indeed, it is one of the most powerful antioxidants on the market and is known to increase cell life span, thanks to its ability to stimulate the production of the longevity proteins: sirtuins. Found in abundance in the cells of hundred-year-olds, sirtuins are the target of new anti-age cosmetics actives.

 

  • ACTION MECHANISMS / PROOFS OF EFFECTIVENESS

 

Resveratrol is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-age properties [2].

• Antioxidant and protective property
Resveratrol is a powerful polyphenol. Studies show that using Resveratrol is effective in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of cell stress owing to its antioxidant abilities [3, 4].
In addition, an in vitro study has shown the ability of Resveratrol to block the activation of NF-kappaB (Nuclear Factor Kappa B) in a dose-dependent manner. This factor is known for its role in the development of UV-induced skin cancer [5].

• Increase in cell life span
It also increases cell life span by activating a sirtuin (SIRT-1), a longevity protein found in skin cells: fibroblasts and keratinocytes [1, 5, 6]. This protein prolongs cell life by compacting DNA, which cannot then be transcribed, which results in the reduction of the error rate and therefore preserves the genome of each cell.

• Anti-wrinkle action
An in vivo study also proves the retinol-like action of Resveratrol. Indeed, it has the ability to reduce the number as well as the depth of deep wrinkles [1].

• Cicatrizing property
Resveratrol stimulates cicatrization. Indeed, a study conducted on human keratonocyte culture has revealed its ability to stimulate the secretion of VEGF (Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor) [7].
Through its anti-free radical properties, its ability to prolong skin cell life and its targeted action on wrinkles, Resveratrol at 5% is an excellent candidate for effectively combating the signs of ageing, while guaranteeing good cutaneous tolerance.

 

  • OUR EXPERT'S OPINION

 

Chemically, this molecule is characterized by a stilbene and polyphenol structure, which explains the properties related to these two classes: antioxidation, absorption of the sun's rays and energy transfer, capture of free radicals, a phytohormone function with the known receptor affinity of stilbenes and, finally, a potential for action on tyrosinase (depigmentation) that a recent communiqué confirms.
This active intrinsically possesses significant potential even though a great deal still remains to be done to elucidate and position the strength of its effects in comparison to other major dermatological actives like vitamin A, for example.
Its antioxidant activity opens its way to every aspect of the prevention of photo-ageing and, likewise, internal cell protection against the immediate damage of sun exposure.
We also find an anti-inflammatory profile in a great many skin affections that responds to products of this type. An effect on rosaceous rashes is expected.
The hormonal profile will enable action on 5-α reductase, as well as on nuclear expression, with a potential interest in acne and chronological ageing.
Finally, an activity inhibiting tyrosinase completes the profile of interest to photo-aged skin and its range of pigment disorders. Melasma may "respond" to this type of molecule, but we are wholly lacking in documentation in this field.
In conclusion, this active is of considerable interest even though it is not currently easy to specify all of its characteristics. The tests published mention a dose at 5%. We have no details for differentiating effects according to dose. Tolerance does not pose any problems. Systemic hormonal activity, given the mode of use and the strength of the receptor binding, is not a concern at the present time.

 

  • EFFECTIVE DOSE

 

The body of publications and scientific studies, customary usages of this active and our expert's opinion concur in using Resveratrol pure Active at the dose of 70 mg per bottle.

 

  • SCIENTIFIC STUDIES

 

[1]

 Activity Method and Duration Products tested and dose Results
Action on cell differentiation in epidermal cells (retinol-like action):
targeted action on wrinkles: reduction in number and depth.
Clinical study on 20 women from 49 to 69 years of age presenting with marked wrinkles are treated with a cream containing 3% resveratrol for 56 days.
Impression measurement. Comparison with a placebo.
3% vine shoot extract titrated at 10% resveratrol

 

  • 80% of the women achieve an improvement: Average reduction of 23% of the wrinkle surface
  • 55% of the women see fewer wrinkles: Average reduction of 71% in the number of wrinkles.

 

Prolongation of cell life span by increasing the expression of sirtuins ("longevity proteins") Measure the level of sirtuins in the fibroblasts by quantitative RT-PCR on a culture of aged human fibroblasts treated with 2 different concentrations of resveratrol. 0.0005 and 0.002% vine shoot extract titrated at 10% resveratrol

 

  • 0.0005% resveratrol increases the level of SIRT-1 by 48%
  • 0.002% resveratrol increases the level of SIRT-1 by 66%

 

Action mechanism of sirtuins:
Sirt-2 (homologous to Sirt-1) increases DNA compaction which cannot then be transcribed (certain parts of the DNA are "silent"). This reduces the risk of introducing errors into the sequence and thus preserves the genome's integrity. We may thus consider that Sirt-2 has anti-ageing properties for the skin.

Biochemical test on the activation of SIRT-1: mixture of 4 different quantities of resveratrol with a fluorescent substrate and NAD+ as cofactor. Comparison with the control (DMSO 1%). 4 mixtures with 4 different quantities of vine shoot extract titrated at 10% resveratrol: 2.3; 11.5; 23 and 46 mg/L.
  • 2.3 mg/l resveratrol: no increase in the activation of SIRT-1
  • 11.5 mg/L increases the level of activation of SIRT-1 by approx. 35%
  • 23 mg/L increases the level of activation of SIRT-1 by approx. 130%
  • 46 mg/L increases the level of activation of SIRT-1 by approx. 358%
Measurement of the rate of expression of SIRT-1 on a reconstructed human epidermis by immunomarking. Cream containing 5% vine shoot extract titrated at 10% resveratrol at 2% 55% increase in the expression of SIRT-1 in the epidermis

 

  • BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES

[2] Resveratrol: a natural polyphenol with multiple chemopreventive properties. Brisdelli F, et al. Curr Drug Metab. 10(6):530-46. 2009.
[3] Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation. Baxter RA, J Cosmet Dermatol. 7(1):2-7. 2008.
[4] Therapeutic potential of resveratrol : the in vivo evidence. Baur JA et al. Nat Rev Drug Discov. 5 (6): 493-506. 2006.
[5] Suppression of ultraviolet B exposure-mediated activation of NF-kappaB in normal human keratinocytes by resveratrol. Adhami VM et al. Neoplasia
[6] Trans-resveratrol: a magical elixir of eternal youth? Orallo F. Curr Med Chem. 15(19):1887-98. 2008.
[7] Upregulation of oxidant-induced VEGF expression in cultured keratinocytes by a grape seed proanthocyanidin extract. Khanna S et al. Free Radic Biol Med. 31 (1): 38-42. 2001..


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